Tulum Then & Now: How the Paradise Town Has Changed (And Why That Matters)

Yes, Tulum has changed dramatically since 2016, it's now commercialized with Starbucks, 7-11, and massive beach clubs replacing the boho-chic vibe. The secret is out: Instagram turned a quiet beach town into a party destination. For authentic experiences, stay in Centro (downtown), visit during shoulder season, and explore beyond the beach road. Here's what to expect in Tulum in 2026.

The Tulum I Knew vs. The Tulum of Today

If you've visited Tulum multiple times over the past decade, you've probably felt it—that shift in energy. The town that once felt like a secret is now on every Instagram influencer's bucket list. I recently returned to Tulum after several years away, visiting for my fourth time across the span from 2016 to 2025, and I have to admit: I was taken aback by how much has changed.

It's not all bad, but it's definitely different. And if you're considering moving to Tulum or planning extended stays, it's worth understanding what you're getting into.

The Golden Era: Tulum in 2016-2017

What Tulum Was Like

In 2016 and 2017, Tulum had a vibe that's hard to describe if you weren't there. It was chic and boho, yes, but more importantly, it felt exclusive without trying to be. It wasn't off the beaten track entirely—it was gaining popularity—but it still had an air of authenticity. You could walk the beach road and it felt intimate. The nightlife existed, but you had to know where to look. Casa Jaguar, Gitano, and Papaya Playa Project were the spots, and finding them required a bit of insider knowledge, which added to the allure.

The Beach Was Yours

The beaches weren't crowded with day clubs fighting for your attention. Beach bars existed, but they were low-key and spread out. You could actually find peace and quiet by walking a little further down the sand. The development was minimal—you could still see vestiges of the eco-friendly, almost hippie vibe that had defined Tulum decades earlier.

The Commerce Was Minimal

Chain stores? Starbucks? 7-11? Haagen-Dazs? These were unthinkable. The shopping was local, the food was authentic, and everything felt like a discovery rather than a transaction.

Tulum in 2025: Paradise Found, Paradise Lost

The Commercialization Boom

Fast forward to November 2025, and the commercialization is undeniable. Starbucks, 7-11, Haagen-Dazs, chain restaurants—they're all here now. The beach road is lined with cookie-cutter shops, tattoo parlors, and tourist traps. It's no longer a place you discover; it's a place you consume.

The Club Culture Explosion

The nightlife has completely transformed. What used to be an exclusive scene has become ubiquitous. Walk down the beach road any evening and you'll hear EDM blaring from massive clubs and bars stacked on top of each other. Some of these venues are enormous, catering to a very specific crowd: party-focused tourists looking for the same experience they could get in Cancún or Miami, but with better aesthetics.

Beach Clubs vs. Beach Vibes

The beach itself has changed too. Daytime beach bars have evolved into sprawling beach clubs, and they're all clustered together. Gone are the days of finding a quiet spot on the sand. Now, you're choosing between different versions of the same formula: bottle service, loud music, Instagram-ready aesthetics, and crowds of tourists.

The exclusivity I once felt has been replaced by a more generic, commercialized experience.

Population Explosion: By the Numbers

Growth That Can't Be Ignored

Here's the reality: Tulum's population grew from just 3,000 people in 1995 to over 46,000 by 2020. That's a 1,400% increase in 25 years. When you understand those numbers, the changes make perfect sense. This isn't a town that chose to commercialize—it's a town that was overwhelmed by demand and responded the only way it could.

Old-timers who've been here since the 1980s and 1990s probably don't even recognize the place anymore. Those who came in the early 2000s might still see echoes of what it was. But if you're coming now, you're experiencing a fully developed beach destination that has more in common with other tourist hotspots than with the bohemian retreat Tulum once was.

The Unexpected Turning Point: 2020

COVID and the Influx

If you ask long-time residents, many point to 2020 as the year everything shifted. While many Mexican destinations locked down during COVID, Tulum remained relatively open. This attracted an influx of remote workers and digital nomads with six-figure salaries looking for beach living without restrictions. Money poured in, prices skyrocketed, and the character of the town shifted even more dramatically.

It wasn't just the number of people; it was the type of person coming. Wealthy visitors with disposable income fueled the greed of developers and business owners, accelerating the commercialization process.

So What's Good About Tulum in 2025?

The Food Is Still Incredible

Here's the silver lining: the food is still world-class. And not just at the famous spots like Arca and Hartwood (though they're excellent). Literally every meal I had in Tulum was exceptional. The culinary scene has actually improved in many ways. Same goes for the drinks. The town may have lost its soul in some respects, but it hasn't lost its palate.

The Beach Is Still Beautiful

Strip away everything else, and Tulum's beach is legitimately one of the best in the world. The sand texture, the water color, the temperature, the accessibility—it's hard to argue against it. If you're purely there for the beach and don't care about the nightlife or the vibe, you'll still have an amazing time.

You Can Still Find Remnants of the Old Tulum

If you look for it, if you venture slightly off the beaten path and avoid the main beach road during peak hours, you can still find pockets of the charming, quaint Tulum that existed before. It's not gone entirely—it's just overpowered by newer, noisier neighbors.

Coming to Terms With Change

The Honest Take

When I first arrived in Tulum on this latest trip, I genuinely felt like I had lost something special. I spent the first 24 hours feeling nostalgic and disappointed, thinking about the intimate beach town I had fallen in love with years ago. But then I accepted the reality: Tulum is not the same. It will never be the same. And that's okay.

Yes, I would prefer it without the oversupply of convenience stores and tattoo shops. Yes, I could do without the "beach bros" and the Instagram models posing for their millionth sunset photo. But I'm not going to let those annoyances overshadow the natural beauty and other charming qualities that still make Tulum great.

It's Still Worth Visiting

The beach is still stunning. The food is still incredible. You can still find good people and genuine experiences if you're intentional about it. It's just not the exclusive, off-the-beaten-path paradise it once was. But then again, no place stays that way forever.

What This Means for Expats and Long-Term Visitors

The Cost of Living

If you're thinking about relocating to Tulum, understand that the cost of living has skyrocketed. Rent, food, drinks—everything is more expensive than it was even five years ago. The influx of wealthy tourists and remote workers has driven up prices across the board.

The Community Changed

The community that made Tulum special was built on people who were seeking something different. Now, many who come to Tulum are seeking the same experience they could get anywhere else—just with a beach view. This fundamental shift in who's coming to Tulum has changed the energy of the place.

But It's Still a Good Base

For those who want to use Tulum as a base to explore the real Mexico, it still works. You can take day trips to hidden ruins, ecological reserves, fishing villages, and cenotes that still feel authentic. The town itself may have lost some of its magic, but the surrounding region remains incredible.

The Bottom Line: Paradise Found, Paradise Lost

Tulum is still great—genuinely great. The beach is one of the best in the world, the food is phenomenal, and if you seek out the right people and places, you can still find authentic experiences. But it's not the secret paradise it once was, and if you're coming to Tulum looking for that laid-back, boho, exclusive vibe, you might be disappointed.

That said, understanding that Tulum has changed is the first step to enjoying what it is now rather than mourning what it was. So come for the beach, stay for the food, and don't expect to stumble upon magic in the commercialized beach clubs. Instead, find that magic in the small restaurants, the cenotes, the local communities just outside the hotel zone, and the genuine connections you make with the people who still call Tulum home despite the changes.

Because at its core, Tulum is still Tulum—it's just not the same Tulum anymore. And that's the reality you need to come to terms with before you arrive.

Related Tulum Area Guides

• Travel Like a Local in Tulum
• 15 Free Things to Do in Tulum
• Tulum Ruins Complete Guide

Looking for authentic experiences in Tulum? Browse local restaurants and cafes or list your Tulum business on ExpatsList.