"Just lie down" you shouted, and I lay down in the surf at Playa Guiones

You were paddling out at Playa Guiones at dawn and I was standing waist deep with a rented board and a look of pure panic. You looked back and shouted, just lie down. I lay down. A wave took me and I came up laughing with the board in my hand. You gave me a thumbs up from fifty meters out. I caught my first wave on Thursday, a small one, forty meters. Nobody was watching, but it counted. I have looked for a pink board every morning at 5.30. It is always a different pink.