The Complete Guide to Puerto Vallarta for Expats and Digital Nomads

Why I moved to Puerto Vallarta

I am from Toronto originally, and I moved to Puerto Vallarta a few years ago after visiting once and just not wanting to leave. If you have been anywhere near the Malecón at sunset, you probably understand. PV has one of the longest-running, most established expat communities in Mexico, and after living here, I get why. It is walkable, it is welcoming, and it does not feel like it is trying to be anything other than what it is. Here is what I would tell anyone thinking about making the move.

Getting here and visas

The airport is Licenciado Gustavo Díaz Ordaz International, code PVR, just north of downtown. Zona Romántica and El Centro are about 20 to 25 minutes away, while Marina Vallarta and the Hotel Zone are much closer, five to fifteen minutes.

Immigration works the same way here as everywhere else in Mexico. You get an FMM tourist card on arrival, valid up to 180 days, and you need to keep it to leave the country. If you want to stay longer than that, start the Temporary Resident Visa process at a Mexican consulate before you travel, since it is far easier than trying to convert status once you are already here. The local INM office handles paperwork for the whole Banderas Bay area, so give yourself extra time and bring copies of everything.

Where to live

This is the question I get asked the most, and the answer really depends on what you want.

Zona Romántica, also called Old Town, is where most long-term expats end up, myself included. It is walkable, packed with restaurants and galleries, and it is also one of the most LGBTQ+-friendly neighborhoods in Mexico, centered around the Blue Chairs beach area. If you want to be able to leave your car at home most days, this is the place.

El Centro is the historic downtown around the Malecón, home to the church of Our Lady of Guadalupe that you have probably seen in photos. Versalles, a short walk from the water, has become one of the best food neighborhoods in the city and tends to be more affordable than Zona Romántica. 5 de Diciembre is similar, a bit more local, a bit more affordable, still close to everything.

If you want something quieter and more residential, Fluvial Vallarta is popular with families, and Marina Vallarta, near the airport, is upscale and built around a marina and golf course. Conchas Chinas, south of Zona Romántica on a hillside, has ocean views and rocky cove beaches, but it comes at a price.

Weather

Dry season runs November through April, and honestly, this is close to perfect weather. Warm days, comfortable evenings, and it is the busiest time of year for a reason. Rainy season runs June through October, with tropical downpours that usually hit in the afternoon or overnight, though mornings tend to be clear. Hurricane season overlaps with that, June through November, worst from August to October. Puerto Vallarta sits in a protected bay, which softens some of the impact, but you should still take storms seriously.

Humidity climbs a lot from May through October, and by that point air conditioning stops being optional.

Cost of living

Puerto Vallarta gives you a real range of price points, which is one of the things I appreciate most. A condo in the tourist zone or right on the beach in Zona Romántica will cost you, but move a few blocks into Versalles or 5 de Diciembre and prices drop noticeably while you are still walking distance from downtown. Street tacos and local mercados are extremely affordable, and groceries at Mega, Soriana, or Walmart cover the basics without a big markup.

Getting around

Local buses are frequent and cheap, connecting the Hotel Zone, El Centro, Zona Romántica, and Marina Vallarta. Taxis are everywhere but unmetered, so agree on a price up front, or just use Uber, which works well here and is usually simpler than negotiating. If you want to head north to Bucerías, Sayulita, or Punta Mita, colectivos run that route regularly. And for the beaches south of town that have no road access at all, a water taxi from the pier is the only way in.

Healthcare and banking

CMQ Hospital and San Javier Marina Hospital are both well regarded, with English-speaking staff, and I have had good experiences at both. There is also a US Consular Agency here that handles passport and emergency services for the region.

BBVA, Santander, and Banorte all have multiple branches across the city, though you will need proof of residency to open an account. Like a lot of expats, I use Wise to bring money down from Canada and convert it at a fair rate rather than dealing with international transfer fees from my home bank.

What to actually do here

Whale watching season, December through March, is incredible, with humpbacks passing right through Banderas Bay. Water taxis run daily out to the beaches south of town at Las Animas, Quimixto, and Yelapa, which have no road access and stay quieter because of it. Los Arcos Marine Park, just offshore, is great for snorkeling and diving among the rock formations. And on weekends, a lot of us head north for the day to Sayulita, San Pancho, or Punta Mita, all within easy reach.

If you have kids or are just looking for something more active, Vallarta Adventures runs zip-lining and dolphin encounter tours, and there are a couple of water parks in nearby Nuevo Vallarta.

My honest take

Puerto Vallarta is not a hidden gem. Everyone already knows about it, and that is kind of the point. The infrastructure is mature, the expat community is large and welcoming, healthcare is solid, and you can genuinely choose your price point depending on the neighborhood. If you want walkability, warmth, and a place that has already figured out how to welcome people from somewhere else, I do not think you will regret giving it a real look. Drop a question on the community boards here if you are still deciding. I try to answer when I can.