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Uy, qué bueno que preguntas! The tourist restaurants on 5th Ave are not Playa. That's a different world. Let me show you where WE eat.
For desayuno, Cocina del Fondo on 30th Ave. Incredible enchiladas, chilaquiles, fresh juices. $80-120 pesos and you're full until dinner. That's where I go on weekends with my family.
El Fogón on Constituyentes and 30th, this place is famous. The al pastor here is some of the best in the Riviera Maya. You'll see the line of locals and you'll understand. $15-20 pesos per taco. Don't overthink it, just get in line.
For a proper midday meal, find any lonchería serving comida corrida. Lonchería la Reyna near Walmart does it right: sopa, plato fuerte, agua, and postre for $75-90 pesos. This is how we eat in Mexico. Every day between 1 and 4 PM, you sit down, you eat a real meal, you go back to work. It's the culture.
At night, Tacos de Birria Don Beto on 30th Ave near CTM. Birria tacos with consomé on the side. $20-25 pesos each. I've been eating there since they were just a cart. Life-changing is the only word.
For mariscos, El Paisano by Chedraui. Fresh ceviche tostadas for $35-50 pesos. This is seafood from the coast, not frozen stuff from who knows where.
And the taco stands on Constituyentes between 20th and 25th? That's where the albañiles and taxi drivers eat. If you see working people lined up at a stand, that's the one. Trust that.
Oh, and try the marquesitas from any street cart. It's like a crispy crepe filled with Nutella and cheese. $30-40 pesos. This is Yucatán street food and it's ours.
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